Ending at the Beginning

One Monday we made it to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.  We got our credencial's stamped and I was able to attend daily mass this evening.  A great way to end the beginning of this pilgrimage.   In the past 6 days we walked from Lourdes to  Louvie-Juzon. From there we made it to Oloron Sainte Marie and then on to Aren.  From Aren to Mauleon-Lichare and then to St Just Ibarre.  Finally, from. St Just Ibarre to here.  We walked about 90 miles in 6 days. 

Saint Jean Pied de Port is where many different French Camino's converge, and then move towards Compostela de Santiago.  This is a major pilgrimage destination for those walking the Way of St James, as it is in Compostela that the remains of St James are buried.  In this context, the way points to a path and a journey, for some pilgrims it is an achievement, a badge of accomplishment.  

What is the Way of St James?  In Acts 9:2 St Luke tells us that Saul (later St Paul)  had letters from the Sanhedrin to bring back any men or women of "The Way" in chains to Jerusalem.  "The Way" was an early name for the church, which is the community of men and women who shared their faith with that of the Apostles, in Jesus Christ as the Son of God who suffered, died and rose from the dead.  This aligns with St John's Gospel where Jesus says that He is "the way, the truth and the life", and the only way to the Father.

Later in the Acts of the Apostles (chapter 12) we learn that St James the Greater, was beheaded by Herod who was king of Jerusalem at the time.  Therefore,  "the way" of St James is the to have the same faith as him, a faith we express in the creed at Mass.  

Being a pilgrim on "The Way" means to take the teachings of Christ to heart.  To be in the world but not of the world.  To live our lives as an invitation to others to see the love and forgiveness that is our path to conversion.   To be aware of the depth of God's love for us, and in response to that love to live a life of conversion, learning day by day to love as Christ loves.

Knackered

When I was a kid growing up in England we used this expression to mean totally exhausted.  That is how I feel tonight.  Drained and ready for sleep.

We entered the Basque country yesterday and today had hot and muggy weather and a long climb.  I began the day with a communal breakfast with the other pilgrims in the albergue and then off to the parish of St Jean Baptist, for morning prayer and Mass.  Mass did not finish until after noon, so that is when I started the camino for the day.  Two hills to climb, in hot muggy weather.  By the time I reached the albergue in st just ibarre I was totally tapped out.

One of the effects of being wiped out is that it reveals your core - strengths and weaknesses.  It is a good way to examen how we have grown in our capacity to love when we are tapped out.  If you are pressed into service for one mile would you go two miles with joy?

Suffice it to say I still have my rough edges that the Lord is still refining.  It iz good fo be aware of them so I can work on them. 

Protect us Lord as we stay awake watch over us as we sleep.  That awake we may keep watching with Christ and asleep rest in His peace.

Amen

Rosaries

One of the ways that I pass the time as I journey from one place to another is in prayer, or contemplation.  Since Wednesday I have been walking on average about 8 to 10 hours a day, that is a lot of time for prayer

And whoever gives only a cup of cold water to one of these little ones to drink because he is a disciple — amen, I say to you, he will surely not lose his reward.  

Sometimes I marvel at the creation I am traveling through, at other times on how God is working in my heart.  At other times I am praying for the needs of the elevations communities that I am part of, my family, my co-workers, my parish, the deacons and clergy of Denver and my friends.

One of the best tools for being a pilgrim is the rosary - each one is a meditation on the life of Christ' s through the eyes of Mary.  It is my goto prayer when I am engaged in strenuous work (like climbing hills and mountains).

I also use the rosary to memorize scriptures For example when I was meditating on the Beatitudes the other day I would recite the verse for a particular Beatitude on each "Hail Mary" bead, and then once a decade pray a Glory  Be and a Hail Mary reflecting on how Mary experienced or lived that Beatitude.

Finally, the mysteries of the Rosary can be paired with the person I am praying for with a particular intention.  Sometimes they just fit, like when someone is suffering and I pray the sorrowful mysteries for them, or when someone is always cheerful and I pray the joyful mysteries for them.  

  

Beatitudes

The camino is marked by a series of painted signs.  Wither a seashell (the symbol of baptism, which is at the start of the way), or a white and red stripe, sometimes with an arrow as the path turns.  The signs prompted me to have some scripture to meditate on as I walked.  I chose Luke 6:20-26 because the Beatitudes are the way of Christ's heart, and one of my goals on the pilgrimage is to grow closer to Him.  The Beatitudes are Luke signposts on the way.

Blessed are you who are poor, for the kingdom. Of God is yours.

In what ways am I poor?  Not materially, but there are areas of my life that experience poverty.  What are those places where I am destitute and needing God's grace?  Where am I humble and willing to yield to others?  Where am I trapped by those sins that I choose over and over again.  Where are the places where I can only depend on the grace of God.  It is when I choose to depend on Him that I begin to experience the Kingdom of God and His grace in my life.  Lord help me to identify and open to you the areas of poverty in my life.

Blessed are you who are now hungry, for you will be satisfied.

What do I hunger for?  Where do I have a driving need in my life?  First and foremost this refers to those who are malnourished.  I am not, but I experience hunger in different ways.  One of the transitions I am going through is that of a single father whose children have (mostly) moved out.  After having spent 30 years of my life providing and caring for the community of my family, I now hunger for that type of community, both filled with chaos, hardship and joy.

Christ calls on us to provide for the hungry, and he will satisfy our other gnawing needs as well.  He did this for Mary as He died He entrusted her to St John and the church.  Then at Pentecost she was with the 12 as the church was born.  Her need for community was also satisfied.

Blessed are you when you are now weeping, for you will laugh.

When do I weep?  The church calls me to weep for my sins, to have a sorrowful heart when I have wounded others.  I weep when I lose a loved one to death.  I weep when I am aware of my wounds.  Mary wept at the foot of the cross and as she held Our Lord when he was taken down from the cross. 

Yet, behind this Beatitude is the fact that God enters into suffering and death out of obedience, and as a result of His sacrifice God brings death to life.  This is a cause for laughter as God has the last laugh over death.

Blessed are you when people hate you, insult and exclude you and denounce your name as evil on account of the Son of Man.  Rejoice and leap for joy on that day.  Behold your reward will be great in heaven, their ancestors treated the prophets in the same way.

To bear insult, calumny, hatred and to be labeled as evil because of your willingness to be a Christian, or for your decision to follow Christ can be difficult.  These trials are difficult to endure, whether you experience them at work, from friends or family.  I understand these trials as the cross, which is an evil I that I would not wish on my worst enemy, but the Lord has asked me to embrace and endure.  Lord, grant me the grace to leap for joy on these occasions.

Impressions

In order to receive the Compestela, a document that recognizes that you have made a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compestela. To do this one carries a pilgrims passport called a Credencial.  Along the way you ask various places, pilgrim houses called alburgues, buisnesses and churches to put a stamp on your Credencial, and sometimes they also record your passing through in a registry of pilgrims.

As I walked from Oloron Sainte Marie to Arens, where we chose to bivouack for the night we encountered through the very hospitable town of Orin I paused to rest by the side door to the catholic church.  At least 3 people stopped their cars and invited us around the corner for coffee.  Not understanding it as an invitation to hospitality I politely declined, but after the third invitation we rounded the corner to a small shop where the woman insisted that we stop and rest and enjoy some orange juice and a bit of coffee cake.  She also stamped our credencial.

Later on the outskirts to Aren we passed a farmhouse with a sign inviting pilgrims to help themselves to water, which Brian did.  A very open and welcoming house.

My reflection is that we all make impressions on one another as we journey on the way.  May God let his grace flow between us through these impressions.

Matthew 10:42 - And whoever gives only a cup of cold water to one of these little ones to drink because he is a disciple—amen, I say to you, he will surely not lose his reward.”

Las Posadas

I was introduced to the tradition of Las Posadas at my first parish, St Anthony of Padua.  9 days prior to Christmas the Church would gather in the evenings to re-enact Mary and Joseph seeking a place to stay in Bethlehem.  Two of the youth would dress as Mary and Joseph and they would go from room to room or house to house.  At each Posada (inn) Mary and Joseph would sing to see if there was room. For them to stay.  The inn keeper would respond in song that the inn was full, then everyone would pray a decade of the rosary.  Mary and Joseph would then seek another place.

We stepped out from the Petit Couvent in Lourdes into  cool and damp autumn morning.  We found the Camino easy to navigate as the signage on the trail is very clear.  The trail begins along the river Pau for many miles through a dense forest

After several miles we came to the Shrine of Lestelle-Betherram, which has a beautiful church.  When I stopped in mass was just ending.  It was the only church we found that had anyone in it.  After receiving the final blessing we climbed the hill out of the river valley, which had the stations of the cross on them, so praying the stations we climbed to the "cross of the heights" which had a great view and picnic tables, so we had lunch.

We soon came to the Church in Asson, which was our destination for the day, but we felt that we could go further, so we pushed on.  

When we arrived at Bruges we started to look for a place to stay - and now las posadas come to mind.  The first place we came to required reservations, and was full.  They said that there was an auberge in the next town Mifaget right next to the Church.

In Mifaget, the church of St Michael's is right next to the road.  St Michael is the patron saint of pilgrims.  In the church there was a sign that the hostel for pilgrims was closed during Covid and has not re-opened.  

We started to call around to places to stay, and after 30 minutes or so found refuge in a Convent converted to a bed and breakfast in Louvie-Juzon, another 8 or 9 km away.  So shouldering our packs we pressed on arriving here at 7.30 pm.  

Unlike Mary and Joseph, The innkeeper and his wife welcomed us and made us feel at home.  They are very gracious hosts.  God always provides, in ways we do not expect.  He gives us the grace, perseverance and gifts to find a welcome home at the end of the journey.

Lourdes

I just spent the past two days immersing myself I to the activities at the Shrine to Our Lady at Lourdes.  There is much to see, do and experience here.  I stayed at the Petit Couvent, just west of the sanctuary.  Had a chance to go to confession.   Prayed at the grotto for those who asked me to pray for them. Time at mass (in polish), adoration and praying g the rosary with about 10,000 people in 15 different languages.

The Couvent

If I had to sum up the experience here it would be in 3 ideas.

• The Certainty of Witness
• The Need to pray for and care for the sick
• The universality of the Catholic Church 

The Certainty of Witness

St. Bernadette encountered the Blessed Mother in a series of visions at a young age.  She shared what she experiences and the. Desired to fade into the background.  As a result the Shrine at Lourdes flourished.  She moved I t to care of the sisters from Nevers and later became a nun caring for the sick.  She died at the age of 35 of tuberculosis.  72 known medical miracles have been credited to Lourdes and over 7000 cases are under consideration.   In all of this Bernadette said that she did not need to convince others but simply to share her experience.

The Grotto at Lourdes

The need to pray for and care for the sick.

I ran into many groups here on pilgrimage.  From a diocese, or parish etc.  From all over the world. Australia, Sri Lanka, Italy,  Kenya, Croatia, Philippines,  and many other places.  Each group had 10 or 20 or 50 people i. Wheel chairs, that they cared for and brought to the baths and the liturgical.  The first proclamation of the gospel was Christ healing the sick.  It is good to see t he desire to include the sick in the life of the church as a primary focus 

The Universality of the Catholic Church

Last night I went to the candlelight procession where we prayed the rosary with about 10,000 Catholics from all over the world.

The procession at Lourdes

Every 3 or 4 prayers and we switched to another language, yet all one faith.   We had mass here each day in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish, Philippino, Arabic, etc. There were people here from all walks of lode.  Rich and poor, black, brown, and white.   Everyone had a sincere faith and that is the point of community.  What a great site to witness

Peace

Paul 

Rain

It is somehow appropriate that when I arrived at Lourdes, the place with miraculous water that I arrive in a downpour.  Then, we walked to a convent, which was not the place where we were to stay.  (I failed to make the convent we had reservations at sufficiently clear).  We had to backtrack and then following google we made our way up an ill used path, to the back gate of the convent where we were to stay only to find that the gate was locked.  Still raining steadily , we backtracked again and finally by long and roundabout way came  to the front door of the Petit Convent.  After some confusion about the reservation we had a place to stay while we are at Lourdes.

By the time we got into the dry I was soaked to the skin.  It turns out the the raingear I brought has lost its effectiveness.  

Water cleanses, washes away, purifies, makes us clean, here at Lourdes the water from the grotto has been documented to miraculously heal abut 70 people, from re-fusing a broken femur, to healing tuberculosis, or giving sight to the blind and healing the dumb so they can speak.  So I don't mind being soaked if it brings me a deeper understanding of the grace of God which flows through my life 

 

Lourdes, in the rain...

Christ the same yesterday and today

During one virtual today (actually Friday), I began with morning prayer and mass at my parish - St Thomas More in Centennial, Colorado.  Evening prayer was prayed somewhere over Nebraska or South Dakota as I flew through the night.  My friend Brian Christensen and I landed in Keflavik, Iceland where I prayed morning prayer

Sunrise at Iceland

From there we caught the next flight to Paris, Where we arrived in the mid afternoon.  That is when the fun began.

I made my last post from the bus that took us from the airport to the Opera bus terminal in central Paris.  It was hard to stay alert after being on the go for 24+ hours.  When we departed the bus we decided to walk to the Auberge Adveniat as rush hour traffic was impossible and we watched people walk faster than our bus.  After some messing around with google apps we made it to the Auberge by foot.  We got checked in at 5:30 pm.  I really wanted to attend mass at Notre Dame and I knew the Saturday evening mass was at 6pm, so having checked in, I decided to try to attend mass at Notre Dame - which was 45 minutes away by foot.  Never to be one to be put off by seemingly impossible deadlines I ser off and in typical, Paul "go mode" cut a trail across Paris along the Seine to Notre Dame weaving in and around the people on the way.  Notre Dame is a huge tourist hotspot, that  just reopened after the fire in 2019.  Like St Marks in Venice there were a ton of people in line to tour the Cathedral.  When I told the security guard that i was there for mass and he ushered me right into where the congregation was gathered just as the priest started the liturgy. 

Mass at Notre Dame

One of the wonderful things about Catholicism is the universality of the church, so while I did not speak a lick of French, I knew the mass and the universality of the faith, sharing the sign of peace with those sharing in the Eucharist.  After Mass I took some quiet prayer time to thank God for a safe journey and all the helpful people I have met so far.  Praying the evening office in the heart of a grand cathedral.  It was awesome.  

At around 8pm exhaustion overtook me so I made my way back to the Auberge at a leisurely pace and, after a refreshing shower I fell into a deep sleep.  

Christ is the same, yesterday, today and tomorrow, for all peoples and all time, 

Patience in transit

One of the hardest things to do is to figure out public transit in a new country when you don't speak the language.  Some of my most intense experiences of this was in Japan, Greece and Italy.  We have worry, am i in the right place?  Will the bus come before I drop dead of exhaustion?  Did I buy the right ticket or did I just miss the bus?  "Martha, Martha, you are worried about many things...  Mary has chosen the better part and it will not be taken from her."

Dear Lord, grant me the patience to trust in your providence and the courage to know that by your will is getting done on this journey.  Amen

Bon Voyage

Denver, Colorado. 

Today, I am leaving Denver to begin a pilgrimage.  I began the day with morning prayer and mass at my parish, and now I am at the airport awaiting my flight. 

This year is a year of Jubilee for the church and I wanted to participate more fully in it, so I am headed on a journey of encounter, accompaniment, hope and healing.  When I prayed morning prayer the following verse caught my heart.  "I have been crucified with Christ and the life I live is not my own; Christ living in me." (Gal 2:19b)

Lord, help me to allow this word to rest in my heart and bear fruit for all whom I encounter on the way....